8 Advantages of Fish Fatty Acids

Fish fatty acids have many far reaching health benefits and should be included as a part of your balanced diet. These essential fatty acids, primarily omega-3s, must be consumed through diet, as your body does not produce them on its own.
Sources of omega-3s can be ingested either through fatty fish or supplements. Though natural fish consumption is thought to be the best because of the additional nutrients it provides your body, either method of consumption will produce positive results on your long-term health. Fatty fishes include salmon, herring, mackerel, sardines and anchovies, and they should be eaten at least twice a week to bring the following benefits to your body:
Advantage #1: Reduces Cancer Risk
Regular consumption of omega-3 fatty acids have been shown to reduce the risk of several types of cancer by up to 50%, including breast, ovary, prostate, esophagus, colon and oral cancers.
Advantage #2: Reduces Risk of Cardiovascular Disease
Research has shown that by eating fatty fishes twice a week, you can reduce your risk of stroke and heart disease. Eating these fish helps to reduce blood clots, improve blood vessel elasticity, lower blood pressure, boost good cholesterol and lower blood fats, all of which contribute to your improved cardiovascular health.
Advantage #3: Decreases Dementia Risk
Studies have proven that elderly people who eat seafood or fish at least once weekly, have a much lower risk of developing both dementia and Alzheimer’s disease.
Advantage #4: Helps Manage Diabetes
Regular eating of fatty fish has been shown to help manage blood sugar levels in people with diabetes.
Advantage #5: Helps Relieve Inflammatory Conditions
Eating fatty fish on a regular basis has been proven to assist in relieving some of the symptoms of inflammatory conditions like autoimmune diseases, psoriasis and rheumatoid arthritis.
Advantage #6: Improves Brain and Eye Health
A diet rich in omega-3s, the vital nutrient supplied in fatty fish, has been shown to contribute to the health of both brain tissue and the retina.
Advantage #7: Decreases Depression Rates
The omega-3s in fatty fish have been linked to producing lower incidences of depression in those people that regularly consume fish.
Advantage #8: Decreases Asthma Risk
Studies have shown that children who eat fatty fish are much less likely to develop asthma throughout their lives.
With so many health benefits, there is no reason to not increase your consumption of fatty fish. Try different fish and recipes, and experiment with baking, steaming, poaching and grilling the fish to really get started on the road to healthier eating and living.

Ancho Chili and Chocolate Goat Cheesecake Popsicles

Taking a bite out of this creamy goat cheese blend is like feasting on a slice of rich cheesecake—in popsicle form! With a spicy kick of ancho chili powder and a dose of antioxidant-rich cocoa, each low-fat treat amounts to approximately 75 calories. Ingredients:
4 oz. low-fat goat cheese, softened
1/3 c. sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. cocoa powder
2 eggs, separated
1 tbsp. flour
1/4 tsp. ancho chili powder
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine goat cheese, sugar, and vanilla and mix until smooth. Add egg yolks two at a time. Fold in flour, cocoa powder, and ancho chile. Whip egg whites until soft peaks form. Gently fold into mixture. Spread into buttered and sugared parchment-lined baking pan. Bake for 20-25 minutes. Cool. Remove from pan by picking up parchment. Use 1 in. cookie cutter to make individual circles and insert skewers to create a "lollipop.”
Makes about eight servings.
Recipe provided by Chef Chris Santos of Beauty & Essex and The Stanton Social

Important Boat Safety Considerations

• Make sure all safety equipment is onboard (life jackets, flares, first aid kit,
  lights if out after sunset). 
• Wear your life jacket at all times.
• Have you been checked out for the boat you are using? (If not, contact the
  BSO, David Duggins, Pema Kitaeff, or Craig Staude.)
• Is there an anchor onboard? If the engine quits and you are close to shore,
  deploy the anchor. All anchors should have floats attached to the end
  of the line. If you cannot retrieve your anchor, just throw the line and
  float overboard and we’ll retrieve it later. Always anchor by the bow
  (front) of the boat, NOT the stern.
• Give way to all other boats in close passing situations. Do not assume
  others know (or care about) the Rules of the Road.
• GO SLOW. Give the boat enough throttle to keep it “on plane” but no
  more. This will save gas and be a safer, more comfortable ride than
  running wide-open throttle.
• Look ahead. Avoid patches of kelp, debris, and logs. When encountering a
  large boat wake: warn passengers, slow down, and approach nearly
  perpendicular to the wave front.
• If unfamiliar with the area you’re in, USE THE CHART included in the
  boat’s emergency bag to check for submerged rocks, reefs, and shoals.
• If you aren’t sure how to read a chart, check with the BSO or a Marine
  Tech before your trip.
• Look astern occasionally to check for:
  - a strong flow of cooling water from outboard motor (if cooling
  stream halts, STOP motor immediately).
  - a ferry or another fast boat overtaking you. As the overtaken boat,
  you should maintain course and speed but prepare to be tossed by a
  wake.
• Carry a cell phone and emergency phone numbers

Alarms going off:

Either overheating (see above) or low oil pressure (check reservoir
and fill if necessary). If you are certain that oil is full and
cooling water is strong, motor slowly back the dock and remove
key from ignition and bring it to the office. DO NOT
OPERATE a motor with cooling or oil problems. Call for help,
or wave down a passing boat for a tow.

Boat engine slows, seems under-powered, or quits:

Is the gas can vented?
Is the gas can empty?
Engine overheated? (check cooling water flow, clear obstructions
from water intake)
Propeller damaged? (check the prop and if damaged, contact BSO or
maintenance. After consulting someone, if damage is minor
and there are no signs of vibration or odd noise, motor back to
FHL SLOWLY (just above idle).
Try switching to another gas can in case fuel is bad (this is rare).

Boat Repair Guide: Common Problems for Non Starting Engines

The most common problem boaters' encounter is the engine failing to start. There are many reasons why you may encounter annoying situation; most of which are minor and easily fixable. Run through the following checklist to save time and money on guesswork repairs.
• Ensure the battery switch is on. If this switch is on turn the switch to the alternate battery.
• Do you smell gasoline? If so, the engine may be flooded. Allow the engine to sit for 20 minutes before attempting to start again. If the engine is an outboard, tilt the engine all the way up so the prop is out of the water.
• Is the engine getting fuel? Pump the primer bulb until firm. If the bulb fails to become firm the tank is empty or the fuel line is disconnected from the tank.
• Most boats come equipped with a kill switch lanyard. Check to see if the lanyard was accidentally pulled or removed engaging the kill switch.
• Fuel tank ventilation. The ventilation hose may become kinked or plugged creating a vacuum that prevents the fuel pump from sucking fuel into the engine. Loosen the fuel cap to allow air into the tank and try restarting.
• Engine spark failure can create confusing problems. The first thing most people do when there is no spark to the engine is change the plugs. Rarely is this the solution. The first thing to do is make sure the batteries are fully charged. Low batteries will prevent the starter from functioning properly and cause spark issues. Even though the engine turns over, it does not mean the batteries are fully charged.• Fuel filters come in a variety of styles. If your boat is equipped with a fuel filter with a clean out valve on the bottom, unscrew the valve to allow water and gunk build up to drain. In addition you may need to clean the plugs if the fuel had water in it. Water can foul plugs.

Taking Care of Your Boat

  

Nothing’s worse than having a boat sit in the yard all summer long. But, if you don’t take care of your boat, performing routine maintenance, that’s exactly what can happen. Don’t be the one stuck on land all summer. Take the time to maintain your boat, make sure your boat insurance is in order, and get out on the water.  Here are some things you should be sure to do on a regular basis:

• Clean your boat. This one should go without saying, but unfortunately, a lot of boat owners don’t invest even a few minutes in keeping their boat clean. Something as simple as spraying your boat off after you pull it out of the water can keep your boat in the water by avoiding the damage caused by long term exposure to the elements.

• Wax and paint your boat as needed. Make sure you use anti-fouling paint.

• Take care of your batteries. This is even more important for your boat than your car, because boat batteries by their very nature are exposed to more water and moisture. Keep the batteries clean and dry.

• Cover your boat when it’s out of the water. Why anyone would invest the few bucks you need for a boat cover after spending thousands of dollars on the boat itself is beyond us. It’s almost as bad as taking your boat out without any boat insurance.

• Flush your engine. Every time you bring the boat out of the water, you should flush the engine.

• Once per year, take your boat to a marine mechanic and have it looked over thoroughly. We know, this costs money, but it’s a lot cheaper than replacing the boat in most cases.

• Make sure your bilge pump is in working order before going out on the water. We hope you never have to use it, but when you do is a very bad time to discover that it isn’t working.

In short, take care of your boat and your boat will take care of making sure you have a good, safe time out on the water. Taking care of a boat the right way takes time and money, but in the end, it’ll be well worth it when you’re out on the lake and some other guy is sitting at home flipping through the channels with a boat he can’t use in the yard.

Boat Battery: Checkup and Storage

Whether or not your boat is stored for the season in a warm garage or out in the cold, your best bet is to remove all batteries and bring them inside.  A fully charged battery with a perfect electrolyte level can probably withstand temperatures down to zero degrees without freezing.  But the colder it gets, the more easily a battery can discharge, and therefore the more easily it can freeze at higher temps.  If even one of the cells freezes, the battery is shot!  Fully charge them about once a month over the winter and they will be ready when you are in the spring.  Try to keep them off of concrete floors is possible and cover the terminals to help prevent discharge.  The last thing you want is a dead battery on the launch ramp on opening day, or a dead trolling motor battery.

Battery Sulfation

Have you ever had a battery that seems to work well but “dies” much more quickly than expected?  The problem may be a battery that is heavily sulfated – often the result of only light use (being discharged by only 15% or so).  The sulfuric acid has become concentrated on the battery’s bottom and sulfate crystals have begun to form.  And even though a multi-meter will indicate that all is well in terms of voltage, the capacity of the battery has become severely reduced.  Sure, the battery will work just fine, but it will die much sooner than normal.  There are certain chargers that have a setting that will temporarily boost the charging voltage for a brief period of time, causing a mixing of the electrolyte, and dissolving the crystals.  The process is called equalization and can be done – depending on the manufacturer – about once a year.  But beware: this should only be done on wet cell batteries; this same process can ruin other types.  And you will need to make sure that you disconnect the batteries from the electrical system to prevent the higher voltage from damaging other equipment.

Battery Chargers

Having said those things, it should be somewhat obvious that it is extremely important to use a proper charger to do the job of recharging your batteries!  Most chargers that are designed to charge you car batteries are not designed to charge your boat batteries: they just don’t always completely shut down.  And how often do you think that you can remember to unplug that cheap charger when things “look about right?”  From what I have read, a 3-stage charger – one that will totally shut off when the battery has reached full charge – is your best buy. 
Without all the chemistry and physics involved, batteries will do best on a regulated diet of amperes and volts served up in the right amount… and in stages.  There are three stages: 1) bulk, 2) absorption and 3) float.  The bulk stage is where a battery is brought up to about 75-80% of capacity.  Absorption is where the voltage is constant but the amperage is tapered while the battery is “topped off.”  And finally, the float stage is where the voltage is just enough to keep the battery from losing any charge.  I’m sure that you are aware of this, but a battery can lose – depending on how and where it is stored – up to 30% of its charge per month – just sitting around the house or garage!  And there are all kinds of things that affect battery charge and loss thereof (like temperature, humidity, state of discharge, age of battery, etc); most of us never consider any of them.  Does size really matter?  Well… in a matter of speaking – yes!  Try to get a charger that is rated at about 15% of the battery’s amp-hour rating (a battery with a 200 amp-hour rating would suggest the need for a 30 amp charger).  I recommend the Dual Pro Professional Series 2-Bank Charger, 15-amp/Bank PS2 (see/click on photo above).

Things that will destroy a battery

There are essentially two things that will quickly and easily destroy your battery: 1) undercharging it or 2) overcharging it. The majority of deep cycle and starting batteries are lead-plate batteries filled with sulfuric acid. Undercharging them will ultimately cause lead sulfate to accumulate on the plates – this will eventually destroy the battery because the normal chemical reaction will be unable to continue. Overcharging the battery will accelerate the natural corrosion of the plates due to excess electrons being literally boiled out of the electrolyte. Ultimately, the fluid boils away and the plates are exposed to the air, which ruins them.

Boat Batteries : What You Need to Know

Usually, by the end of October, many of the lakes have “turned over” for the winter. Morning steam rising from the water indicates that the heat energy stored in the lake from the long hours of summer daylight is beginning to return once again to the atmosphere as the water begins its annual slumber and ultimate renewal. There is perhaps still a little time left for one final outing, but most – if not all – of you have taken your boats out of the water and gotten them cleaned out, “winterized” and ready for next spring’s trek back to your favorite fishing spots. You take very good care of your boats, motors, poles, reels and other gear inside the boat. But have you really taken the time to look after one of the most important pieces of equipment that you have on board – your batteries?

Most of us take our boat batteries for granted, in much the same manner as we do our car batteries. I used to do that. In fact, I had a car that sat in the warmth of the garage all winter. I thought that an occasional blast from a charger would be enough to do the trick. Boy was I wrong. And the result was a new battery about every other year – until, after a lecture from my mechanic, I got a little bit smarter about batteries. Not unlike young children, they require maintenance. Getting the right battery for the intended task is only part of the story – keeping that battery healthy with the proper charging and maintenance will ultimately ensure that you will have the necessary power when you call for it!

BOAT STORAGE

STORAGE SUGGESTIONS

• Fiberglass boats will "chalk" in time if left in the sun.
If possible, store them in a garage,
car port or cover them with a
breathable tarp.
• When storing your boat, open
all hatches to vent the boat and
prevent moisture which can cause rot,
rust or corrosion. Pull the plug to drain water.
To make sure that you replace the plug before using the boat, attach it to the boat key ring, or
someplace where you can’t miss it.
• Do not store boats under trees. Falling leaves will stain a boat (particularly fiberglass).
Tree sap and bird droppings are also tough to remove.
• Store removable seat cushions inside after cleaning & scrubbing them, treating any mildew spots that
have occurred, and drying them thoroughly.
• Check battery fluid and restore it as required. Check battery terminals and clean with a terminal
brush to maintain good electrical connections.
• Check boat accessories. If you have wood oars or paddles, check them for
roughness, splinters or cracks in the blade.
Replace if required. Check plastic or metal
paddles or oars for signs of wear
that might cause them to fail.
• Check your ropes, lines,
anchors, boat poles, rod holders
and other fishing and boating
accessories. Repair or replace any damaged equipment.
• Check the condition of your life preservers (personal flotation devices – PFD’s), and replace
when required. Sun, saltwater & age will damage PFDs. Note that you must have one for each
person on board, including children, and they must be properly sized for each person.
• When storing your boat, remove the electronics to prevent theft. Keep such instruments inside
to protect them. When removing electronics, protect electrical connections with de-moisturizing
compounds or sprays. Check your lights (bow starboard – green – and port – red and 360 degree
white light) to ensure that they are working.
• If trailering, use a trailer with adequate bunks or beds on which the hull rides, all positioned
appropriately to support your boat. This is most important when fitting a boat to a trailer the
first time. (For a complete guide on trailering, visit TakeMeFishing.org)
• Visually inspect the rest of your boat trailer at this time also. Check tires, tire pressure, hubs,
grease fittings, rust or corrosion on any part of the trailer, tongue, trailer hitch chains, lock, trailer
lights (night, right turn, left turn and braking lights).
• Lastly, check to make sure that your boat sticker or state certification is up to date along with the
trailer license registration.