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The Wellness Benefits of Brie Cheese

However if you are thinking about well being and on a diet, this is perhaps one of the foods to avoid, as it contains fats, and will increase cholestrerol levels. You may also have a lactose intolerance so Azure Brie may be your best bet as the red blood vessels in the dairy products are a dangerous bacteria related to penicillin, Penecillium roqueforti. This is actually excellent for the intestinal tract as it fights parasites in the gut.

Brie is an excellent source of calcium mineral, excellent for better bone and teeth, but is high in salt, with 178.6 mg per ounce; the suggested everyday consumption of salt is 1,500 mgs and most People in america have dual this quantity in their everyday diet plans. Sodium can increase hypertension, so you should be cautious about the quantity you eat. Goat's dairy Brie contains less salt and more calcium mineral and vitamin D stages than that created of cow's dairy, as well as having less fat and cholestrerol levels. All goats' dairy cheese are better than those created of cow's dairy.

One ounces of a frothy perfect Brie contains 94.9 calorie consumption and 7.9 gr of fat, with 5.9 gr aminoacids per ounces. It contains natural vitamins B 12, which is excellent for anxiety and red system tissues as well as defending against muscle weak point, bladder control problems, dementia and swift changes in moods. It also contains B2 (riboflavin) which has antioxidants as does selenium also included in this dairy products. Anti-oxidants help secure tissues from damage by toxins which can make better tissues cancer. However these antioxidants are present in meals such as spinach, brussel seedlings, clothes and fruit.

Personally I only like the real France Brie and prefer a excellent Camembert or any goats' dairy products, but if I buy Brie it has to be perfect and ready to drop off the blade, so if you do love this and buy an under-ripe one, don't keep it in the refrigerator, but store in a awesome place for a week so that it ripens and is perfect to consume!

Brie created from cow's dairy is not particularly great for well being, but who could avoid a piece of it occasionally? It's one of those meals that, to money the term used to promote lotion desserts in the UK, are "naughty but nice."

The Advantages of Crab Meat

 

Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images

If you are looking for healthy foods to add to your diet, you may want to consider crab. Crab is nutrient-dense, it is versatile, and you can use it in salads, appetizers or as a main course. Thoroughly cook your crab or any seafood before you eat it, and avoid crab meat if you suspect that you may be allergic.

Low-Calorie

Each serving of crab meat contains only 71 calories, so it can be part of a calorie-controlled diet to lose weight or prevent weight gain. Each serving of crab meat provides 15 g protein, which is a filling nutrient that may help you lose weight. Protein slows down the emptying of food from your stomach and makes you feel full for longer after a meal. To limit your intake of calories from eating crab meat, avoid high-calorie dishes such as crab dip made with full-fat cream cheese.

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Source of Omega-Three Fats

A 3-oz. serving of cooked crab meat has 86 mg eicosapentaenoic acid, or EPA, and 57 mg docosahexaenoic acid, or DHA. EPA and DHA are long-chain omega-three fatty acids which may lower your risk for heart disease when you get at least 250 mg per day, according to the 2010 Dietary Guidelines from the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. In addition to crab meat, dietary sources of EPA and DHA include other shellfish, such as oysters, shrimp and mussels, and fatty fish, such as salmon, tuna, herring and sardines.

Rich in Essential Nutrients

Selenium is a heart-healthy mineral which promotes the antioxidant activity of vitamins C and E, and each 3-oz. serving of crab meat contains 37 mg selenium, or percent of the daily value. This same amount of crab meat provides 3.2 mg zinc, or 21 percent of the daily value for this mineral for a strong immune system. Some of the vitamins in crab meat include Vitamin B-12, vitamin E, folate and niacin, or vitamin B-3.

Other Advantages

Crab meat provides less than 1 g total fat, and it is nearly free from saturated fat, which raises levels of cholesterol in your blood. Eat it only in moderation if you are watching your cholesterol intake, since a 3-oz. serving provides 82 mg, or 27 percent of the daily value. Some seafood, such as tilefish, mackerel, swordfish and shark, are likely to be high in mercury, which is an environmental contaminant. Pregnant women should avoid those sources of omega-3 fats, and crab meat is a safer choice for pregnant women because of its lower mercury content.

Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/509863-the-advantages-of-crab-meat/#ixzz29hBdmXV8

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Important Boat Safety Considerations

• Make sure all safety equipment is onboard (life jackets, flares, first aid kit,
  lights if out after sunset). 
• Wear your life jacket at all times.
• Have you been checked out for the boat you are using? (If not, contact the
  BSO, David Duggins, Pema Kitaeff, or Craig Staude.)
• Is there an anchor onboard? If the engine quits and you are close to shore,
  deploy the anchor. All anchors should have floats attached to the end
  of the line. If you cannot retrieve your anchor, just throw the line and
  float overboard and we’ll retrieve it later. Always anchor by the bow
  (front) of the boat, NOT the stern.
• Give way to all other boats in close passing situations. Do not assume
  others know (or care about) the Rules of the Road.
• GO SLOW. Give the boat enough throttle to keep it “on plane” but no
  more. This will save gas and be a safer, more comfortable ride than
  running wide-open throttle.
• Look ahead. Avoid patches of kelp, debris, and logs. When encountering a
  large boat wake: warn passengers, slow down, and approach nearly
  perpendicular to the wave front.
• If unfamiliar with the area you’re in, USE THE CHART included in the
  boat’s emergency bag to check for submerged rocks, reefs, and shoals.
• If you aren’t sure how to read a chart, check with the BSO or a Marine
  Tech before your trip.
• Look astern occasionally to check for:
  - a strong flow of cooling water from outboard motor (if cooling
  stream halts, STOP motor immediately).
  - a ferry or another fast boat overtaking you. As the overtaken boat,
  you should maintain course and speed but prepare to be tossed by a
  wake.
• Carry a cell phone and emergency phone numbers

Alarms going off:

Either overheating (see above) or low oil pressure (check reservoir
and fill if necessary). If you are certain that oil is full and
cooling water is strong, motor slowly back the dock and remove
key from ignition and bring it to the office. DO NOT
OPERATE a motor with cooling or oil problems. Call for help,
or wave down a passing boat for a tow.

Boat engine slows, seems under-powered, or quits:

Is the gas can vented?
Is the gas can empty?
Engine overheated? (check cooling water flow, clear obstructions
from water intake)
Propeller damaged? (check the prop and if damaged, contact BSO or
maintenance. After consulting someone, if damage is minor
and there are no signs of vibration or odd noise, motor back to
FHL SLOWLY (just above idle).
Try switching to another gas can in case fuel is bad (this is rare).

Boat Repair Guide: Common Problems for Non Starting Engines

The most common problem boaters' encounter is the engine failing to start. There are many reasons why you may encounter annoying situation; most of which are minor and easily fixable. Run through the following checklist to save time and money on guesswork repairs.
• Ensure the battery switch is on. If this switch is on turn the switch to the alternate battery.
• Do you smell gasoline? If so, the engine may be flooded. Allow the engine to sit for 20 minutes before attempting to start again. If the engine is an outboard, tilt the engine all the way up so the prop is out of the water.
• Is the engine getting fuel? Pump the primer bulb until firm. If the bulb fails to become firm the tank is empty or the fuel line is disconnected from the tank.
• Most boats come equipped with a kill switch lanyard. Check to see if the lanyard was accidentally pulled or removed engaging the kill switch.
• Fuel tank ventilation. The ventilation hose may become kinked or plugged creating a vacuum that prevents the fuel pump from sucking fuel into the engine. Loosen the fuel cap to allow air into the tank and try restarting.
• Engine spark failure can create confusing problems. The first thing most people do when there is no spark to the engine is change the plugs. Rarely is this the solution. The first thing to do is make sure the batteries are fully charged. Low batteries will prevent the starter from functioning properly and cause spark issues. Even though the engine turns over, it does not mean the batteries are fully charged.• Fuel filters come in a variety of styles. If your boat is equipped with a fuel filter with a clean out valve on the bottom, unscrew the valve to allow water and gunk build up to drain. In addition you may need to clean the plugs if the fuel had water in it. Water can foul plugs.

Taking Care of Your Boat

  

Nothing’s worse than having a boat sit in the yard all summer long. But, if you don’t take care of your boat, performing routine maintenance, that’s exactly what can happen. Don’t be the one stuck on land all summer. Take the time to maintain your boat, make sure your boat insurance is in order, and get out on the water.  Here are some things you should be sure to do on a regular basis:

• Clean your boat. This one should go without saying, but unfortunately, a lot of boat owners don’t invest even a few minutes in keeping their boat clean. Something as simple as spraying your boat off after you pull it out of the water can keep your boat in the water by avoiding the damage caused by long term exposure to the elements.

• Wax and paint your boat as needed. Make sure you use anti-fouling paint.

• Take care of your batteries. This is even more important for your boat than your car, because boat batteries by their very nature are exposed to more water and moisture. Keep the batteries clean and dry.

• Cover your boat when it’s out of the water. Why anyone would invest the few bucks you need for a boat cover after spending thousands of dollars on the boat itself is beyond us. It’s almost as bad as taking your boat out without any boat insurance.

• Flush your engine. Every time you bring the boat out of the water, you should flush the engine.

• Once per year, take your boat to a marine mechanic and have it looked over thoroughly. We know, this costs money, but it’s a lot cheaper than replacing the boat in most cases.

• Make sure your bilge pump is in working order before going out on the water. We hope you never have to use it, but when you do is a very bad time to discover that it isn’t working.

In short, take care of your boat and your boat will take care of making sure you have a good, safe time out on the water. Taking care of a boat the right way takes time and money, but in the end, it’ll be well worth it when you’re out on the lake and some other guy is sitting at home flipping through the channels with a boat he can’t use in the yard.

Boat Battery: Checkup and Storage

Whether or not your boat is stored for the season in a warm garage or out in the cold, your best bet is to remove all batteries and bring them inside.  A fully charged battery with a perfect electrolyte level can probably withstand temperatures down to zero degrees without freezing.  But the colder it gets, the more easily a battery can discharge, and therefore the more easily it can freeze at higher temps.  If even one of the cells freezes, the battery is shot!  Fully charge them about once a month over the winter and they will be ready when you are in the spring.  Try to keep them off of concrete floors is possible and cover the terminals to help prevent discharge.  The last thing you want is a dead battery on the launch ramp on opening day, or a dead trolling motor battery.

Battery Maintenance

Batteries have come a long way since the 60’s.  Back then, most – if not all – wet cell batteries were dry to start with.  In the storeroom of the gas station at which I worked, there was a large box with a plastic bag filled with electrolyte – sulfuric acid.  I found out it was acid the hard way; in filling a battery, I once managed to splash the electrolyte all over my pants.  I didn’t realize the power of the stuff until my work pants got washed.  They looked as if I had been shot by a machine gun – the one leg was nothing but holes!  Now there is an incredible variety of batteries that are available for every imaginable use: marine starting & trolling, auto, agricultural, industrial).  They all have at least one thing in common: they need to be maintained to some degree – even the “maintenance free” types.  They will lose their electrolyte during normal use and need to be checked; all need to be recharged.  Most of us still use the wet cell types for marine applications, although there are essentially three distinct types of lead acid batteries manufactured for marine applications, and any one type can be designed and built for either starting or deep cycle applications. These types are flooded acid, gelled acid, and Advanced AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat).  The gelled acid and AGM types are essentially maintenance free since they are sealed.  But because of this, be very careful when recharging them. They are also more expensive but do have their advantages.  The most important thing for the flooded acid variety is to keep them full.  Top them off with distilled water whenever possible; minerals in tap water can contaminate the electrolyte.  Keep the terminal clamps clean and free of corrosion; coat them with anti-corrosion spray or even petroleum jelly.  Check connections and keep them tight; watch for frayed wires and replace them.  And for a few bucks spent at your local auto parts store, a Battery Hydrometer – used to check the specific gravity (concentration of acid) is a good investment.  It is a great way to determine if one of the cells is bad.  If the difference in specific gravity is 30 points or more… it’s time to replace your battery!

Battery Sulfation

Have you ever had a battery that seems to work well but “dies” much more quickly than expected?  The problem may be a battery that is heavily sulfated – often the result of only light use (being discharged by only 15% or so).  The sulfuric acid has become concentrated on the battery’s bottom and sulfate crystals have begun to form.  And even though a multi-meter will indicate that all is well in terms of voltage, the capacity of the battery has become severely reduced.  Sure, the battery will work just fine, but it will die much sooner than normal.  There are certain chargers that have a setting that will temporarily boost the charging voltage for a brief period of time, causing a mixing of the electrolyte, and dissolving the crystals.  The process is called equalization and can be done – depending on the manufacturer – about once a year.  But beware: this should only be done on wet cell batteries; this same process can ruin other types.  And you will need to make sure that you disconnect the batteries from the electrical system to prevent the higher voltage from damaging other equipment.

Battery Chargers

Having said those things, it should be somewhat obvious that it is extremely important to use a proper charger to do the job of recharging your batteries!  Most chargers that are designed to charge you car batteries are not designed to charge your boat batteries: they just don’t always completely shut down.  And how often do you think that you can remember to unplug that cheap charger when things “look about right?”  From what I have read, a 3-stage charger – one that will totally shut off when the battery has reached full charge – is your best buy. 
Without all the chemistry and physics involved, batteries will do best on a regulated diet of amperes and volts served up in the right amount… and in stages.  There are three stages: 1) bulk, 2) absorption and 3) float.  The bulk stage is where a battery is brought up to about 75-80% of capacity.  Absorption is where the voltage is constant but the amperage is tapered while the battery is “topped off.”  And finally, the float stage is where the voltage is just enough to keep the battery from losing any charge.  I’m sure that you are aware of this, but a battery can lose – depending on how and where it is stored – up to 30% of its charge per month – just sitting around the house or garage!  And there are all kinds of things that affect battery charge and loss thereof (like temperature, humidity, state of discharge, age of battery, etc); most of us never consider any of them.  Does size really matter?  Well… in a matter of speaking – yes!  Try to get a charger that is rated at about 15% of the battery’s amp-hour rating (a battery with a 200 amp-hour rating would suggest the need for a 30 amp charger).  I recommend the Dual Pro Professional Series 2-Bank Charger, 15-amp/Bank PS2 (see/click on photo above).

Things that will destroy a battery

There are essentially two things that will quickly and easily destroy your battery: 1) undercharging it or 2) overcharging it. The majority of deep cycle and starting batteries are lead-plate batteries filled with sulfuric acid. Undercharging them will ultimately cause lead sulfate to accumulate on the plates – this will eventually destroy the battery because the normal chemical reaction will be unable to continue. Overcharging the battery will accelerate the natural corrosion of the plates due to excess electrons being literally boiled out of the electrolyte. Ultimately, the fluid boils away and the plates are exposed to the air, which ruins them.

Boat Batteries : What You Need to Know

Usually, by the end of October, many of the lakes have “turned over” for the winter. Morning steam rising from the water indicates that the heat energy stored in the lake from the long hours of summer daylight is beginning to return once again to the atmosphere as the water begins its annual slumber and ultimate renewal. There is perhaps still a little time left for one final outing, but most – if not all – of you have taken your boats out of the water and gotten them cleaned out, “winterized” and ready for next spring’s trek back to your favorite fishing spots. You take very good care of your boats, motors, poles, reels and other gear inside the boat. But have you really taken the time to look after one of the most important pieces of equipment that you have on board – your batteries?

Most of us take our boat batteries for granted, in much the same manner as we do our car batteries. I used to do that. In fact, I had a car that sat in the warmth of the garage all winter. I thought that an occasional blast from a charger would be enough to do the trick. Boy was I wrong. And the result was a new battery about every other year – until, after a lecture from my mechanic, I got a little bit smarter about batteries. Not unlike young children, they require maintenance. Getting the right battery for the intended task is only part of the story – keeping that battery healthy with the proper charging and maintenance will ultimately ensure that you will have the necessary power when you call for it!

BOAT STORAGE

STORAGE SUGGESTIONS

• Fiberglass boats will "chalk" in time if left in the sun.
If possible, store them in a garage,
car port or cover them with a
breathable tarp.
• When storing your boat, open
all hatches to vent the boat and
prevent moisture which can cause rot,
rust or corrosion. Pull the plug to drain water.
To make sure that you replace the plug before using the boat, attach it to the boat key ring, or
someplace where you can’t miss it.
• Do not store boats under trees. Falling leaves will stain a boat (particularly fiberglass).
Tree sap and bird droppings are also tough to remove.
• Store removable seat cushions inside after cleaning & scrubbing them, treating any mildew spots that
have occurred, and drying them thoroughly.
• Check battery fluid and restore it as required. Check battery terminals and clean with a terminal
brush to maintain good electrical connections.
• Check boat accessories. If you have wood oars or paddles, check them for
roughness, splinters or cracks in the blade.
Replace if required. Check plastic or metal
paddles or oars for signs of wear
that might cause them to fail.
• Check your ropes, lines,
anchors, boat poles, rod holders
and other fishing and boating
accessories. Repair or replace any damaged equipment.
• Check the condition of your life preservers (personal flotation devices – PFD’s), and replace
when required. Sun, saltwater & age will damage PFDs. Note that you must have one for each
person on board, including children, and they must be properly sized for each person.
• When storing your boat, remove the electronics to prevent theft. Keep such instruments inside
to protect them. When removing electronics, protect electrical connections with de-moisturizing
compounds or sprays. Check your lights (bow starboard – green – and port – red and 360 degree
white light) to ensure that they are working.
• If trailering, use a trailer with adequate bunks or beds on which the hull rides, all positioned
appropriately to support your boat. This is most important when fitting a boat to a trailer the
first time. (For a complete guide on trailering, visit TakeMeFishing.org)
• Visually inspect the rest of your boat trailer at this time also. Check tires, tire pressure, hubs,
grease fittings, rust or corrosion on any part of the trailer, tongue, trailer hitch chains, lock, trailer
lights (night, right turn, left turn and braking lights).
• Lastly, check to make sure that your boat sticker or state certification is up to date along with the
trailer license registration.

More Seafood Questions Answered

Common Seafood Questions Answered
Here are the most common questions I get here about seafood so I thought I would address them here in one post. Fresh fish seems the major concern.

When is fish bad? Whole fish is bad when the eyes get cloudy and the gills get brownish in color, always look for clear eyes and ruby red gills when buying fish whole or having one filleted or steaked out. Cut fish is bad when the flesh does not spring back from touch, the flesh is opaque and/or has an ammonia type odor.

When is fresh or wild salmon season? People often ask for fresh salmon when they mean wild salmon that is why I included both terms. Typically wild salmon season runs from first of March to late November although some species are available late into winter. My advice is to always buy Alaskan salmon, if it is not available fresh, frozen Alaskan salmon is just as good, the process they use often makes the frozen salmon actually fresher than the "fresh" salmon you buy in market.


Is seafood better for you than red meat? Yes, it is recommended you have two to three servings of seafood a week compared to one of red meat, and yes pork is included in red meat despite their advertising it as a white meat. There is just so much good nutrition you can obtain from seafood that you just can't get from any other single food source, plus it is a high grade protein.

Seafood Questions?

Common Seafood Questions Answered
Here are the most common questions I get here about seafood so I thought I would address them here in one post. Fresh fish seems the major concern.


When does fish go bad? When fish goes bad is determined by the temperature it is stored at. At minus 10 degrees F or below it can last up to 12 months, at 30 degrees F about 7 days, at 40 degrees F (approx normal home refrigeration temp) about two to three days.


How fast does fish go bad? Typically it will last in home refrigeration two to three days after brought home from market. Temperature is always the key to how fast fish goes bad, the colder you can keep fish the longer it stays consumable.

More Advantages to Fish

Dementia - elderly people who eat fish or seafood at least once a week may have a lower risk of developing dementia, including Alzheimer's disease.

Depression - people who regularly eat fish have a lower incidence of depression (depression is linked to low levels of omega 3 fatty acids in the brain).

Diabetes - fish may help people with diabetes manage their blood sugar levels.

Eyesight - breastfed babies of mothers who eat fish have better eyesight, perhaps due to the omega 3 fatty acids transmitted in breast milk.

Inflammatory conditions - regular fish consumption may relieve the symptoms of rheumatoid arthritis, psoriasis and autoimmune disease.

Prematurity - eating fish during pregnancy may help reduce the risk of delivering a premature baby.