Battery Sulfation

Have you ever had a battery that seems to work well but “dies” much more quickly than expected?  The problem may be a battery that is heavily sulfated – often the result of only light use (being discharged by only 15% or so).  The sulfuric acid has become concentrated on the battery’s bottom and sulfate crystals have begun to form.  And even though a multi-meter will indicate that all is well in terms of voltage, the capacity of the battery has become severely reduced.  Sure, the battery will work just fine, but it will die much sooner than normal.  There are certain chargers that have a setting that will temporarily boost the charging voltage for a brief period of time, causing a mixing of the electrolyte, and dissolving the crystals.  The process is called equalization and can be done – depending on the manufacturer – about once a year.  But beware: this should only be done on wet cell batteries; this same process can ruin other types.  And you will need to make sure that you disconnect the batteries from the electrical system to prevent the higher voltage from damaging other equipment.

Battery Chargers

Having said those things, it should be somewhat obvious that it is extremely important to use a proper charger to do the job of recharging your batteries!  Most chargers that are designed to charge you car batteries are not designed to charge your boat batteries: they just don’t always completely shut down.  And how often do you think that you can remember to unplug that cheap charger when things “look about right?”  From what I have read, a 3-stage charger – one that will totally shut off when the battery has reached full charge – is your best buy. 
Without all the chemistry and physics involved, batteries will do best on a regulated diet of amperes and volts served up in the right amount… and in stages.  There are three stages: 1) bulk, 2) absorption and 3) float.  The bulk stage is where a battery is brought up to about 75-80% of capacity.  Absorption is where the voltage is constant but the amperage is tapered while the battery is “topped off.”  And finally, the float stage is where the voltage is just enough to keep the battery from losing any charge.  I’m sure that you are aware of this, but a battery can lose – depending on how and where it is stored – up to 30% of its charge per month – just sitting around the house or garage!  And there are all kinds of things that affect battery charge and loss thereof (like temperature, humidity, state of discharge, age of battery, etc); most of us never consider any of them.  Does size really matter?  Well… in a matter of speaking – yes!  Try to get a charger that is rated at about 15% of the battery’s amp-hour rating (a battery with a 200 amp-hour rating would suggest the need for a 30 amp charger).  I recommend the Dual Pro Professional Series 2-Bank Charger, 15-amp/Bank PS2 (see/click on photo above).

Things that will destroy a battery

There are essentially two things that will quickly and easily destroy your battery: 1) undercharging it or 2) overcharging it. The majority of deep cycle and starting batteries are lead-plate batteries filled with sulfuric acid. Undercharging them will ultimately cause lead sulfate to accumulate on the plates – this will eventually destroy the battery because the normal chemical reaction will be unable to continue. Overcharging the battery will accelerate the natural corrosion of the plates due to excess electrons being literally boiled out of the electrolyte. Ultimately, the fluid boils away and the plates are exposed to the air, which ruins them.

Boat Batteries : What You Need to Know

Usually, by the end of October, many of the lakes have “turned over” for the winter. Morning steam rising from the water indicates that the heat energy stored in the lake from the long hours of summer daylight is beginning to return once again to the atmosphere as the water begins its annual slumber and ultimate renewal. There is perhaps still a little time left for one final outing, but most – if not all – of you have taken your boats out of the water and gotten them cleaned out, “winterized” and ready for next spring’s trek back to your favorite fishing spots. You take very good care of your boats, motors, poles, reels and other gear inside the boat. But have you really taken the time to look after one of the most important pieces of equipment that you have on board – your batteries?

Most of us take our boat batteries for granted, in much the same manner as we do our car batteries. I used to do that. In fact, I had a car that sat in the warmth of the garage all winter. I thought that an occasional blast from a charger would be enough to do the trick. Boy was I wrong. And the result was a new battery about every other year – until, after a lecture from my mechanic, I got a little bit smarter about batteries. Not unlike young children, they require maintenance. Getting the right battery for the intended task is only part of the story – keeping that battery healthy with the proper charging and maintenance will ultimately ensure that you will have the necessary power when you call for it!

BOAT STORAGE

STORAGE SUGGESTIONS

• Fiberglass boats will "chalk" in time if left in the sun.
If possible, store them in a garage,
car port or cover them with a
breathable tarp.
• When storing your boat, open
all hatches to vent the boat and
prevent moisture which can cause rot,
rust or corrosion. Pull the plug to drain water.
To make sure that you replace the plug before using the boat, attach it to the boat key ring, or
someplace where you can’t miss it.
• Do not store boats under trees. Falling leaves will stain a boat (particularly fiberglass).
Tree sap and bird droppings are also tough to remove.
• Store removable seat cushions inside after cleaning & scrubbing them, treating any mildew spots that
have occurred, and drying them thoroughly.
• Check battery fluid and restore it as required. Check battery terminals and clean with a terminal
brush to maintain good electrical connections.
• Check boat accessories. If you have wood oars or paddles, check them for
roughness, splinters or cracks in the blade.
Replace if required. Check plastic or metal
paddles or oars for signs of wear
that might cause them to fail.
• Check your ropes, lines,
anchors, boat poles, rod holders
and other fishing and boating
accessories. Repair or replace any damaged equipment.
• Check the condition of your life preservers (personal flotation devices – PFD’s), and replace
when required. Sun, saltwater & age will damage PFDs. Note that you must have one for each
person on board, including children, and they must be properly sized for each person.
• When storing your boat, remove the electronics to prevent theft. Keep such instruments inside
to protect them. When removing electronics, protect electrical connections with de-moisturizing
compounds or sprays. Check your lights (bow starboard – green – and port – red and 360 degree
white light) to ensure that they are working.
• If trailering, use a trailer with adequate bunks or beds on which the hull rides, all positioned
appropriately to support your boat. This is most important when fitting a boat to a trailer the
first time. (For a complete guide on trailering, visit TakeMeFishing.org)
• Visually inspect the rest of your boat trailer at this time also. Check tires, tire pressure, hubs,
grease fittings, rust or corrosion on any part of the trailer, tongue, trailer hitch chains, lock, trailer
lights (night, right turn, left turn and braking lights).
• Lastly, check to make sure that your boat sticker or state certification is up to date along with the
trailer license registration.

ANNUAL BOAT CARE

ANNUALLY

• If you have a wood boat, check it carefully each spring or fall for possible damage or rot.
Be particularly vigilant in corners, under decks that might stay moist, along the waterline, and
the back of the boat (transom). If you can remove your boat from the water, place it on blocks or
turn it over for wintering.
• Scrub all boats at least once a
year, more often if used in salt
water. You can use a regular
brush for aluminum boats, but
check with your marina or boat
supply retailer for special gentle
soaps and tools for scrubbing
gelcoat or fiberglass without
damage.
• Use special fiberglass boat polish to
maintain the finish of your fiberglass boat
and preserve its value.
• Aluminum boats require little care, but
many are assembled with rivets. Make sure
that you check all rivets to prevent leaks.
With the boat in water, use a permanent felt
tip marker or chalk to mark those rivets or
areas that leak. Boat shops can fix this or
you can drill out and re-rivet (use only boat
rivets) or seal by hammering on one side
while a friend holds a steel stop on the other
side of the rivet.

WEEKLY/MONTHLY BOAT CARE

REGULARLY (WEEKLY/MONTHLY)
• When cleaning your boat, check for any loose fittings, cracks, loose rivets or other parts that need
care, special attention or replacement. Fix these immediately, or get the boat to a qualified marina
for a detailed check up.
• If you don’t like to spend time washing your boat, remove all fishing tackle, seat cushions,
electronics and other accessories, then run the boat through a high-pressure car wash or one of the
do-it-yourself washing bays. Because of the fittings on boat trailers and some boats, avoid using
brush-style car washes.
• Use special metal cleaners and scrubbers to maintain easily-corroded chrome, aluminum or
stainless steel fittings. This is especially important around salt water.
• When washing your boat, consider using bio-degradable detergents and soaps which are less
harmful to the environment.