Important Boat Safety Considerations

• Make sure all safety equipment is onboard (life jackets, flares, first aid kit,
  lights if out after sunset). 
• Wear your life jacket at all times.
• Have you been checked out for the boat you are using? (If not, contact the
  BSO, David Duggins, Pema Kitaeff, or Craig Staude.)
• Is there an anchor onboard? If the engine quits and you are close to shore,
  deploy the anchor. All anchors should have floats attached to the end
  of the line. If you cannot retrieve your anchor, just throw the line and
  float overboard and we’ll retrieve it later. Always anchor by the bow
  (front) of the boat, NOT the stern.
• Give way to all other boats in close passing situations. Do not assume
  others know (or care about) the Rules of the Road.
• GO SLOW. Give the boat enough throttle to keep it “on plane” but no
  more. This will save gas and be a safer, more comfortable ride than
  running wide-open throttle.
• Look ahead. Avoid patches of kelp, debris, and logs. When encountering a
  large boat wake: warn passengers, slow down, and approach nearly
  perpendicular to the wave front.
• If unfamiliar with the area you’re in, USE THE CHART included in the
  boat’s emergency bag to check for submerged rocks, reefs, and shoals.
• If you aren’t sure how to read a chart, check with the BSO or a Marine
  Tech before your trip.
• Look astern occasionally to check for:
  - a strong flow of cooling water from outboard motor (if cooling
  stream halts, STOP motor immediately).
  - a ferry or another fast boat overtaking you. As the overtaken boat,
  you should maintain course and speed but prepare to be tossed by a
  wake.
• Carry a cell phone and emergency phone numbers

Alarms going off:

Either overheating (see above) or low oil pressure (check reservoir
and fill if necessary). If you are certain that oil is full and
cooling water is strong, motor slowly back the dock and remove
key from ignition and bring it to the office. DO NOT
OPERATE a motor with cooling or oil problems. Call for help,
or wave down a passing boat for a tow.

Boat engine slows, seems under-powered, or quits:

Is the gas can vented?
Is the gas can empty?
Engine overheated? (check cooling water flow, clear obstructions
from water intake)
Propeller damaged? (check the prop and if damaged, contact BSO or
maintenance. After consulting someone, if damage is minor
and there are no signs of vibration or odd noise, motor back to
FHL SLOWLY (just above idle).
Try switching to another gas can in case fuel is bad (this is rare).

Boat Repair Guide: Common Problems for Non Starting Engines

The most common problem boaters' encounter is the engine failing to start. There are many reasons why you may encounter annoying situation; most of which are minor and easily fixable. Run through the following checklist to save time and money on guesswork repairs.
• Ensure the battery switch is on. If this switch is on turn the switch to the alternate battery.
• Do you smell gasoline? If so, the engine may be flooded. Allow the engine to sit for 20 minutes before attempting to start again. If the engine is an outboard, tilt the engine all the way up so the prop is out of the water.
• Is the engine getting fuel? Pump the primer bulb until firm. If the bulb fails to become firm the tank is empty or the fuel line is disconnected from the tank.
• Most boats come equipped with a kill switch lanyard. Check to see if the lanyard was accidentally pulled or removed engaging the kill switch.
• Fuel tank ventilation. The ventilation hose may become kinked or plugged creating a vacuum that prevents the fuel pump from sucking fuel into the engine. Loosen the fuel cap to allow air into the tank and try restarting.
• Engine spark failure can create confusing problems. The first thing most people do when there is no spark to the engine is change the plugs. Rarely is this the solution. The first thing to do is make sure the batteries are fully charged. Low batteries will prevent the starter from functioning properly and cause spark issues. Even though the engine turns over, it does not mean the batteries are fully charged.• Fuel filters come in a variety of styles. If your boat is equipped with a fuel filter with a clean out valve on the bottom, unscrew the valve to allow water and gunk build up to drain. In addition you may need to clean the plugs if the fuel had water in it. Water can foul plugs.

Taking Care of Your Boat

  

Nothing’s worse than having a boat sit in the yard all summer long. But, if you don’t take care of your boat, performing routine maintenance, that’s exactly what can happen. Don’t be the one stuck on land all summer. Take the time to maintain your boat, make sure your boat insurance is in order, and get out on the water.  Here are some things you should be sure to do on a regular basis:

• Clean your boat. This one should go without saying, but unfortunately, a lot of boat owners don’t invest even a few minutes in keeping their boat clean. Something as simple as spraying your boat off after you pull it out of the water can keep your boat in the water by avoiding the damage caused by long term exposure to the elements.

• Wax and paint your boat as needed. Make sure you use anti-fouling paint.

• Take care of your batteries. This is even more important for your boat than your car, because boat batteries by their very nature are exposed to more water and moisture. Keep the batteries clean and dry.

• Cover your boat when it’s out of the water. Why anyone would invest the few bucks you need for a boat cover after spending thousands of dollars on the boat itself is beyond us. It’s almost as bad as taking your boat out without any boat insurance.

• Flush your engine. Every time you bring the boat out of the water, you should flush the engine.

• Once per year, take your boat to a marine mechanic and have it looked over thoroughly. We know, this costs money, but it’s a lot cheaper than replacing the boat in most cases.

• Make sure your bilge pump is in working order before going out on the water. We hope you never have to use it, but when you do is a very bad time to discover that it isn’t working.

In short, take care of your boat and your boat will take care of making sure you have a good, safe time out on the water. Taking care of a boat the right way takes time and money, but in the end, it’ll be well worth it when you’re out on the lake and some other guy is sitting at home flipping through the channels with a boat he can’t use in the yard.

Boat Battery: Checkup and Storage

Whether or not your boat is stored for the season in a warm garage or out in the cold, your best bet is to remove all batteries and bring them inside.  A fully charged battery with a perfect electrolyte level can probably withstand temperatures down to zero degrees without freezing.  But the colder it gets, the more easily a battery can discharge, and therefore the more easily it can freeze at higher temps.  If even one of the cells freezes, the battery is shot!  Fully charge them about once a month over the winter and they will be ready when you are in the spring.  Try to keep them off of concrete floors is possible and cover the terminals to help prevent discharge.  The last thing you want is a dead battery on the launch ramp on opening day, or a dead trolling motor battery.

Battery Maintenance

Batteries have come a long way since the 60’s.  Back then, most – if not all – wet cell batteries were dry to start with.  In the storeroom of the gas station at which I worked, there was a large box with a plastic bag filled with electrolyte – sulfuric acid.  I found out it was acid the hard way; in filling a battery, I once managed to splash the electrolyte all over my pants.  I didn’t realize the power of the stuff until my work pants got washed.  They looked as if I had been shot by a machine gun – the one leg was nothing but holes!  Now there is an incredible variety of batteries that are available for every imaginable use: marine starting & trolling, auto, agricultural, industrial).  They all have at least one thing in common: they need to be maintained to some degree – even the “maintenance free” types.  They will lose their electrolyte during normal use and need to be checked; all need to be recharged.  Most of us still use the wet cell types for marine applications, although there are essentially three distinct types of lead acid batteries manufactured for marine applications, and any one type can be designed and built for either starting or deep cycle applications. These types are flooded acid, gelled acid, and Advanced AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat).  The gelled acid and AGM types are essentially maintenance free since they are sealed.  But because of this, be very careful when recharging them. They are also more expensive but do have their advantages.  The most important thing for the flooded acid variety is to keep them full.  Top them off with distilled water whenever possible; minerals in tap water can contaminate the electrolyte.  Keep the terminal clamps clean and free of corrosion; coat them with anti-corrosion spray or even petroleum jelly.  Check connections and keep them tight; watch for frayed wires and replace them.  And for a few bucks spent at your local auto parts store, a Battery Hydrometer – used to check the specific gravity (concentration of acid) is a good investment.  It is a great way to determine if one of the cells is bad.  If the difference in specific gravity is 30 points or more… it’s time to replace your battery!